Monday, June 22, 2020

ABANDONED ENTRANCE INTO ACADIA NATIONAL PARK

Today visitors to Bar Harbor can easily reach one of the major entrances into Acadia National Park by turning left at the end of Main Street and driving up West Street, crossing Eden Street and continuing up West Street Ext. right into the park, but that was not always the case.  Before West Street Ext. was constructed, the main entrance into Acadia National Park would of been more complicated, You would have to drive out onto Eden Street, turn up onto Highbrook Road, drive past How's Park, turn onto Champlain Road and finally arrive at a four way intersection.  Directly ahead was the entrance into the park, which passed through a short section of forest before coming to a right hand turn, where todays Duck Brook Road is today, the section closed to cars.  That curve or corner was well known as Reservoir Corner, because just a short ways down the road, up on the hill side, sat the Bar Harbor Water Company water reservoir, whose huge foundation and walls still stand today.
At the intersection of Champlain and Highbrook Roads there is a stop sign, directly across from Champlain Road there is usually a large storage container or dumpster, behind the storage container is a worn path that follows the edge of the woods, not far along the path turns into a road, and at different areas of the road you can still see the old pavement.
If your looking for the easiest way to locate this section of abandoned road, drive up West Street Ext. into the park, just ahead on the right is the blocked off end of the Duck Brook Road,  park there.  Walk along the road, not far, following the large granite stones along the right side of the road until they end, the abandoned section of road can now be seen.  It is a short walk and easy to follow.
Over toward one corner of the woods, shown on the map, is the remains of an old structure.

ABANDONED ENTRANCE TO ACADIA NATIONAL PARK MAP
DUCK BROOM ROAD











DUCK BROOK ROAD OFF WEST STREET EXT.
ACADIA NATIONAL PARK


START OF DUCK BROOK ROAD OFF WEST STREET EXT.
ACADIA NATIONAL PARK

The old foundation remains are located at
N 44 23.355   Wo68 13.610









Wednesday, June 17, 2020

ABBY'S RETREAT - LESS OF A MYSTERY TODAY

A fascinating mystery of sorts began to unfold one day while pouring over old maps, when my eyes fell upon two words - Abby's Retreat," which led me to my next body of research, what was 'Abby's retreat?  A nursing home?  A home for recovering alcoholics?  A private club where the wealthy gathered?  This name fascinated me from day one and I began diving through old records in search of an answer.   My research led me to an old treasure of a book titled  "Sherman's Bar Harbor guide" - a book loaded with gems from cover to cover, and what follows was taken straight from its pages;

THE HIGHBROOK ROAD

The Highbrook Road winds gracefully over the hills with many noble views of the bay and mountains.  Two of the chief cottages are close together on high ground, with prospects of amazing grandeur.  The larger of these is Mossely Hall, belonging to William B. Howard, a celebrated railroad king of Chicago.  It is said to have cost upwards of $100,000.  Not far distance is Stanwood, the summer place of the Hon. James G. Blaine, with rich flower beds and shrubberies, and fine views of Frenchman's Bay and its islands and Green Mountain.  On the crest of the hill stands the handsome red granite house built by McKim, Mead and White, in 1887-88, for Capt. George M. Wheeler, USN.  The hill was bought by Capt. James B. Eads, the engineer of the Mississippi jetties, and Capt. Wheeler, and on Capt. Eads death his portion was added to  the Wheeler estate.  For fifteen years this noble and sea-viewing eminence has borne the name of Abby's Retreat, in memory of a dear old island lady  who for many years use to visit its summit (then her own property), to look out over the ocean and dream long dreams of the past.  ( We are presented with an older woman looking back on her life  and dreaming of its recollections, and perhaps what might of been, the sea spread out before her with sky and birds above, her dreams richer then any of the views before her with perhaps a few conflicted feelings now and then, of regrets of having sold the property her heart found so much comfort in).   In the white winters of her fourscore years she asked the rich Bostonian who bought the place to give it her name and with gentle courtesy he did so.
To the westward of Abby's Retreat is Woodbury Park, with the new cottage built by W.R. Emerson for H. Le Barre Jayne of Philadelphia

The book reveals Abby's Retreat was both a person as well as a intriguing place, but one ghost the book never gives up is exactly who Abby was.  The property that made up Abby's Retreat was owned by Capt. George M. Wheeler, USN. and Capt. James B. Eads. , and in an age when homes had names, we are not provided with one here, but we do learn the home in question was a handsome red granite house built by McKim, Mead and White, and Stanwood, the summer place of the Hon. James G. Blaine, was nearby.  And while Abby herself may forever remain anonymous, we are teased with the fact that she was "a dear old island lady  who for many years use to visit its summit (then her own property), to look out over the ocean and dream long dreams of the past. "
Now if you have a nose for such things and experienced at digging through old deeds, you might be the one who finally reveals Abby's full name, a task I will leave to others to follow up on.   The insightful aspect to this story is that even after Charles T. How obtained the property it would continue to be recognized as Abby's Retreat.
 The Bostonian who ended up buying the place most likely was Charles T. How, as he owned some 100 acres in that general area at one time and he was from Boston, a lawyer and real estate dealer.  We also are treated to the fact  that Woodbury Park is located Westward of Abby's Retreat, this would place it in the area of the Hampton Inn and the edge of the cliffs by the Blue Nose Inn, as it is near the summit but on the crest of the hill.  Sometimes history can be a stubborn guidian of her past and it just may prove Abby's true identity will remain a mystery, poking her head out from old maps and books every now and then amazed at the effort we give to the chase, but as for Abby's Retreat,  it is much less of a mystery today and one can only believe with its inns and hotels, Abby would find comfort in the fact that people travel from near and far to do as she once did, take in priceless views and dream.

In the old map below the roads run differently then they do today, West Street Ext hasn't even been built yet.  On the map, Woodbury Park is the tiny triangle just above its name,  and just above that is the name Abby's Retreat, which would suggest its location might be just above its name.



So I just came across this piece in the Bar Harbor Record which now gives us the name of the estate before it became known as Abby's Retreat;

Bar Harbor Record
November 6, 1895

LIKES BAR HARBOR

Major George M. Wheeler, of the United States Engineering Corps and Mrs. Wheeler have returned to Washington.  They went in the drawing car Whitcomb.  Major Wheeler has been beautifying the grounds about Avamaya , his summer home here and delights staying in Bar Harbor until the snow flies.

Bar Harbor Historical Society on their Cottages section says this was latter named Blair Eyrie, was later torn down and Summit House built, which also was torn down to make room for the Hamption Inn.


Bar Harbor Record
October 16, 1895

Walter Paris, the celebrated artist, is spending a few days in Bar Harbor sketching the scenery.  Mr. Paris is preparing sketches from the tower of Avamaya, the summer home of Major George M. Wheeler on Highbrook Road which when transferred to canvas will make a panorama view about seven feet in length.  Mr. Paris like all other artists who visit Mount Desert Island is delighted with the scenery.


Bar Harbor Record
August 8, 1896

Miss Shaw's concert at the residence of Mrs. George M. Wheeler, "Avamaya," Norman and Highbrook Roads, crest of Abbie's Retreat Hill, kindly tendered Miss Shaw for the purpose, is to take place Saturday morning at eleven o' clock.  Miss Geraldine Morgan's artistic playing on the violin is a rare treat always, and Mrs. Perkins has a beautiful, pure soprano voice, and sings with artisic style and musicial taste.






Bar Harbor Times

September 15, 1920

Mr. Charles T. How is making a very pretty place of the cottage on the Abby's Retreat Road, which he purchased of Mr. James Eddy last autumn.  Its grounds will form a delightful preface and pleasing introduction to the beauties of Woodbury Park.

Thursday, June 11, 2020

THE FERN TRAIL - ACADIA NATIONAL PARK

The old Fern Trail, or path as they were once called, began off of the old Gurnee Trail, I have not been able to find that small section of trail from the Gurnee Tail up to the Park Loop Road, but from the Park Loop Road over to the wet land area of the Witch Hole Pond Carriage Road I had documented a number of years ago, it is well worn and easy to follow.  Today I explored a section of woods in and around the area of the Wet Lands and located where the Fern Trail picked up again, and was surprised at just how well worn the trail was as well as in good shape, it was clear the trail gets traveled often.  The easiest way to locate the Fern Trail is at the Duck  Brook Bridge where the Carriage Roads begin, cross the bridge and straight ahead is a worn path entering the woods, the trail comes out close to the wet land area, as I exited the woods there I could not help but notice a line of rocks stops right by where the trail comes out onto the carriage road by the wetlands.  The line of rocks leads left toward the wetlands and directly across from the start of the open area of the wetlands, to the right, the Fern Trail picks up again as it leads through the woods to the Paradise Hill - Park Loop Road.  Back in the day a well worn path across the roadway would of led down to the Gurnee Trail.
So back at the Duck Brook Bridge, where did the Fern Trail go to from there?  The Fern Trail would crossed a bridge in the area of the duck Brook Bridge and entered the woods across the Duck Brook Road, and run left along the side of Great Hill, until it came to the area of the Great Hill Reservoir, where the Fern Trail would of joined the Royal Fern Trail.  The Royal Fern Trail began at How Park and ran up to the Great Hill Reservoir and from there up to the summit of Great Hill.  AA number of Old newspaper articles state that the Royal Fern Trail was not a pleasant Trail to hike, it was often wet or muddy and the ground uneven and rough with rocks and roots.

Near the end of the trail where it comes out at the Park Loop Road, just to the right, facing the mro9ad, is a small foundation, I enclosed one photo of it.

Start of Trail;
Cross Duck Brook Bridge,
unmarked trail straight ahead behind sign

Middle of path
(Witch Hole Carriage Road)
N 44 23.904
W 068 14.078

starts again across from wetlands
N 44 23.918
W 068 14.101

Path at Park Loop Road End
(by storm drain)
N 44 24.123
W 068 14.078

Old Foundation
N 44 24.079
W 068 14.055

Abandoned Fern Trail
Acadia National Park


























Tuesday, June 9, 2020

THE OLD PARADISE HILL ROAD

The old Paradise Hill Road lies on Paradise Hill, and has a carriage road, the Paradise Hill Carriage Road, which loops around the hill.  To locate the old road, starting at Duck Brook Bridge carriage Road off of Duck Brook Road, cross the bridge and go right, this will take you to Witch Hole Pond, at the first carriage road signs, go left, turn right at the next carriage road signs, (post #2) you will be heading for the section of carriage road with a sign "Hull's Cove Visitor's Center" (post #1).  Directly across from post #1 climb up the hillside on the other side of the road until you come in sight of what will look like an old stone wall, this is actually payers of stones that built up the side of the roadway.  It is nearly impossible to get lost here since Paradise Hill is completely circled by a marked Carriage Road.
Carriage Road intersections have numbered posts so you know where your at at all times.  The map does not show the old road, only the direction you want to go to reach it.

PARADISE HILL MAP
Acadia National Park

Old Paradise Hill Road
Sides Built Up With Stones
Acadia National Park







As you can see from the photos, you can use the stones along the side of the road as a guide, and in long sections you don't even need a guide, a couple times we did lose sight of the road but quickly picked it back up again.


Thursday, June 4, 2020

IN SEARCH OF THE FLUME

IN SEARCH OF THE FLUME

Some people have asked me a number of questions about the flume and the route it may of taken, would there still be any evidence of it today.  The answer is though we don't know the exact route the flume took, there are clues out there is you look for them.  One question I got a few times is do I think any of the boards would of survived all these years, the clear answer is yes, we have to look no further than the site of the Water Reservoir itself for proof of this, which is where I will begin at, since this site was part of the flume operation, find timers or boards here and there are bound to be more out there somewhere.
The first photo is of boards located in the far left rear of the Reservoir, with wire attached to them, which may or may not of been part of a fence at one time.




Board two we discovered as we examined the rear of the Reservoir from along the top rear of the site, I had seen that years ago and at the time, with leaves on it, thought it to be part of an old tree, but a closer look revealed it is actually a long timer.






In the next photo this board was not too far from the first, and a good deal of the section of timer is under dirt and leaves.  So now we have answered if wood could of survived all these years in the outdoor elements, it could.



From here we moved to the base of the mountain behind the Reservoir and followed it a ways before moving up to the next level where there was a good deal of flat open granite, I had walked through this area many times over the years, but never from this angle, and there sticking up about a foot and a half was a metal rod,  kinda like the rods you see sticking up out of the ground along the Green Mountain Railroad route up the side of Cadillac Mountain, but here, on the side of Great Hill, on flat granite, why?  This rod is not too far from the Reservoir and highly likely to be connected to it and perhaps the flume itself.  The GPS location of this rod is at N44 23.576   Wo68 13.895





It was threatening to rain but we pushed on, making out way to a wet land area where a tiny brook flows out of, its pretty much dry right now, so we followed the brook to the Duck Brook Road where a storm drain was near by.  Up the road to my right was where the side of the road was blocked off by a concrete barrier, and for some reason I moved across the roadway and looked down the embankment almost across from that brook we followed and told my son, wow, look at that nice section of cut granite down there.  He looked and replied, yeah, and look at that long old board between the trees behind it. How was it I never saw that long board, I have no idea but there it was, propped up between some trees.


The board above is down the embankment but easy to see along with the cut granite stone in front of it.  GPS for the top of the banking  along duck Brook Road is N 44 23.600  W 068 14.441, the banking is not too steep there and you can go all the way down to Duck Brook where a nice section of the old Duck Brook path is, but unless your experienced at this type of exploration you may be better off just viewing the board and stone from the roadway.



I had brought a zoom lens with me so I was able to get a nice photo of it, we then realized the banking in that one area was not too steep, and slowly made our way down to the board - looking for maybe some writing on it, no luck, but we left the board undisturbed.  It is just a short ways further below the site of the board that you come to Duck Brook, the section where a nice stretch of the old Duck Brook path can still be seen, but by now it had began to rain a bit so we headed back up the banking to the road above.  Because of the rain I totally forgot to get the GPS of this site but will try and get it and post in here sometimes this weekend.




Some Native American art going on here as well found this tee pee inside the Great Hill water

Reservoir


No one said this was going to be easy...we found this - the remains of an old iron chair, three fourths of the way up the hillside behind the Reservoir - very strange find


Check out Google map below of the Great Hill reservoir, is that crazy or what, its sticking out like a sore thumb, I did the exact search on Bing map but it lacked detail.

I keep going back to the fact that Scott's Hill was the site where the flume ended its journey near the top of the hill by what was Mrs. Scott's cottage.  Today an abandoned mansion sets at about that location, and most likely no trace of the wooden reservoir still exists, but there are two suspicious locations near the top of what is now Schoolhouse Hill that I would love to know what they are.  The site to the left appears to be a very large structure with walls but no roof, maybe  a third the  size of the mansion I am guessing by comparing the two, what is it?  No road appears to go to it.
The second site is to the right and when I first saw it years ago I had no idea what I was looking at, it has a really large wooden cover with spacing between the boards, way too large to be a well, yet it appears to be some type of super well, really large and deep and appears to have a large amount of water in it.  I have never found much on the Scott's Hill reservoir other then the fact that it was near the top of the hill and constructed of wood, could this mysterious deep structure be an underground reservoir?  If not, what is it?





I have taken a couple looks at this site above and it does appear to be a very large underground water storage of some type, newspaper articles state the reservoir on Scott's Hill was built of wood, but does not state if it was above ground or under ground, and this structure does appear to be built of wood.

In the History Of The Bar Harbor Water company, it states two things which were not known when that publication was written, but which, from old newspaper reports, are now known.  The first thing it states is that the reservoir on Scott's Hill was most likely built of stone, this was not the case and several articles state that the Scott's Hill Reservoir was built of boards.  The publication also states that the location of Scott's Hill is unknown, again, old newspaper articles tell us exactly where Scott's Hill was located, and over the years that hill has gone by several names including;  Scott's Hill. Malden Hill, Hamilton Hill and Schoolhouse Hill.  The map below is of that hill, showing property owners at the time the map was made.

Scott's Hill, Schoolhouse Hill, Hamilton Hill

If you read the newspaper article below you will notice that the names of property owners corresponds  with the property owners on the above map.






This from the Bar Harbor Record, the section of the news story that describes the water reservoir;

Bar Harbor Record
June 12, 1901

It is constructed with three distinct walls which insure against breakage or leakage, the otter or retaining wall being of stones of various sizes laid without mortar.  The second or masonry core wall from bed rock to level being of large stone laid in mortar.  The inner slope is paved with selected stones laid as closely together as practicable in a cushion packing of broken small stones.
The lining is of cermet concrete put on in layers, introducing a waterproof system which is very effective in the shape of a waterproof lining which is placed between the layers of concrete.  Some fifty or sixty men have been employed during the spring, and a steam drill and stone crusher have played an important part.  About 3,000 feet of 16 and 20 inch pipe have been laid from the reservoir to the village at a large expense.  The reservoir will be filled by the main pipe which leads from Eagle Lake about two miles distance, and capable of holding some 800,000 gallons.  When completed Bar Harbor will have one of the finest water systems in the country.  The contractors from the above work were Taylor and Tylee of Boston, Mr. F.C. Coffin of Boston being chief engineer, and Mr. S.S. Bunker of Bar Harbor resident engineer.  Mr. J.F. Fifield of Boston is general superintendent of the entire work.

(The actual site of this reservoir is only mentioned in general terms, with the reservoir being located beyond How Park along the  Bracken Path, to the best of my knowledge the Bracken Path only ran along one side of Great hill, the end the furthest away from the Great Hill Reservoir, coming out on the Duck Brook Road in two places, with one path continuing on the other side of the road, making its way past Brewer Mountain and ending by the Breakneck Ponds.  This story appears to be about the Great Hill Reservoir.)



Bar Harbor Record
July 4,  1906

The Bar Harbor Water Company was organized in the seventies at a time when some system of water works was absolutely necessary to any further progress of Bar Harbor as a watering place.  Too much credit can not be given to Messrs Fountain and Serenus Rodick for their courage in building the plant with practically no assistance and with but little apparent income from such an outlay as was necessary.  The initial system was a crude affair, the water being taken from New Mill Meadow, over a mile below Eagle Lake, carried in a wooden sluice part of the way and part of the way running in an open ditch, it was brought to a wooden reservoir located near the lot now occupied by Miss Saunders cottage (owned prior by Mrs. Scott) on the Eagle Lake Road.  From this humble beginning there has been developed one of the best water works systems in the state.  In 1893 the Rodicks sold their stock to the present owners, who are mostly of the summer colony.  A pipe line had previously been laid from Eagle Lake to the town and in 1895 a new pipe line was brought from New Mill Meadows costing some $25,000.  A year or two later, an 8 inch main was constructed to Hulls Cove, making a permanent supply of water to this suburb of Bar Harbor.
A dam has been built at Eagle lake to ensure the holding back of a sufficient amount of water to supply Bar Harbor and Hulls cove during the severest drought.  In 1900 a reservoir was built on the hill back of How's Park with a capacity of 700,000 gallons, in order that the pressure might at all times be sufficient in case of fire.  These, with various other improvements in the pipe line system have cost many thousands of dollars.  The company is still further improving its plant at the present time by the erection of a filter under the engineering supervision of Freeman C. Coffin of Boston.
The directors of the water company are Mr. John S. Kennedy, Mr. David B. Ogden, Mr. W.H. L. Lee of New York, Dr. Robert Amory of Boston, and Mr. Fred C. Lynam of Bar Harbor.  The latter is president of the company, and Mr. Edward B. Mears Secretary and treasurer Mr. A.H. Grlnfle is the ellicienl superintendent of the water company.
The management of the water company has been most progressive, meeting with promptness and efficiency the problems forced upon it by the requirements of a rapidly growing community.

I added the note (owned prior by Mrs. Scott) because in other stories it clearly states that Mrs Scott sold her property to Miss Saunders.  Old maps clearly show that Mrs. Scott's cottage was located on top of what is today known as Schoolhouse Hill, but also went by several other names as well over the years.
What I find most interesting is the reason behind the building of the Great Hill reservoir, it was built in case of a bad fire.  Also of interest is that this is yet another account that states the reservoir on Scott's Hill was a wooden one.


SECOND SECTION OF FLUME  ?

This photo below is a very interesting photo, I believe it came from the book 'Sherman's Bar Harbor Guide" which I located on Google books, but I could be wrong(map was from Southwest Harbor Public Library digital online site).  I at first was convinced what I was looking at was an extremely long and highly elevated bridge, but it made no since, why build a wooden bridge in that area at all, let along make it so high, than I realized it looked strangely familiar, much like the Bar Harbor Water Company flume that crossed Duck Brook.  I have already shown that Scott's Hill was indeed what we today call schoolhouse Hill, and this structure runs right toward Schoolhouse Hill.
The Brook runs down along today's West Street Ext., not yet built when the map was made, in fact one end of West Street had also not yet been built.  The brook I believe is called Eddie Brook, and clearly this is not Duck Brook, Holland Ave. is not far from one end of the brook.  In the book #5 was identified as 'Abby's Retreat' but first known as Avamaya, about the location of where the Summit House was located and today's Hampton Inn.  So that places this section of flume like structure west of Highbrook Road crossing Eddie Brook.


So tonight I happened across yet another old newspaper article on the flume, and unlike the others that named School House Hill by other names it was known as, such as Malden Hill, Hamilton Hill, Scotts Hill and such, this writer, A.L. Higgins actually names the hill where the wooden reservoir was constructed as School House Hill, so we are actually making some progress.

A.L. Higgins
Bar Harbor Times
November 14, 1928

(Copies from a section of the article word for word)

"An open spruce wood flume was started at a convenient place near the Eagle Lake.  The bottom of said flume was of a board eight inches wide by one inch thick;  cotton wicking was trailed along either edge and the two side boards were then nailed on securely;  the sides were boards in the rough, six inches wide by one inch thick.  As I remember it, after surveying the route, measuring the distance to and getting the elevation of this beautiful body of water, Mr. Fountain Rodick and Mr. Desisle started their 'box flume' at a convenient position near the lake, and giving it as near as possible an approximate grade of one inch to one foot, they succeeded in completing it that winter to the Eagle lake Road near Central Avenue, where it was carried under the surface of the street by the cyphon principle, and I am quite sure that not a single foot of iron or other metal piping was used in any of this work, until the water flowed in abundance into the new wooden reservoir which had been already constructed on the summit of 'School House Hill' that spring of 1873.

Not only does this confirm the reservoir was made of wood, and its true location, School House Hill, we now know where on School House Hill, the summit.  This brings me back to that really huge well that drops deep into the earth, it lies on the summit not far from that mansion with a very large wooden cover, between the boards you can peer down and see just how deep and wide it is, I can't help but believe that is the reservoir, build of wood and placed in the ground.  Sadly, we may never know, a ton of blasting has been going on and heavy equipment is pushing and moving earth everywhere up there, even neat the summit - as of a few weeks ago the huge oversize well was still there, but sections of the Castle had already had earth bulldozed over sections of it, there will be little left to find once they get done up there.
Photo of a very large and deep structure on summit of School House Hill
BAR HARBOR WATER COMPANY RESERVOIR
GREAT HILL - ACADIA NATIONAL PARK





THE ITALIAN ENCAMPMENT AT HOW'S PARK

The Bar Harbor Record
Jan. 16, 1895

I visited the Italian encampment last week and found it quite a settlement.  These sons of sunny Italy are working like beavers on the line of the Bar Harbor Water System, and accomplishing a vast amount of work.  When I drove up to the encampment I was fortunate in finding Mr. Savage there, who took me into the camp and explained their method of living.
One big camp contains their bunks with accommodations for about 80.  The store room is at the end, in charge of an intelligent looking Italian who portions off the edibles to the others.  The room was redolent with the fumes of garlic.
Scattered about the big camp are dozens of smaller huts or wigwams built in all manner of styles.  In these different huts cliques get together and cook their rations over a fire built in the center, right on the ground.
It is a picturesque scene though not particularly attractive.
Accompanied by Mr. Savage, I walked the length of the trench from How's Park, where about twenty-five local laborers are at work, to duck Brook, and saw the Italians digging away all along the line.  Mr. Cusker, the contractor, was giving his personal attention to the work, which must be progressing to his satisfaction.















We will be updating this post from time to time as we make any other discoveries.